The legacy of tacos al pastor in Los Angeles: from King Taco to Leo’s Tacos

The history of tacos al pastor in Los Angeles is a rich tapestry woven with cultural influences, culinary innovations, and entrepreneurial spirit. It all began with Raul Martínez, who founded the King Taco chain of restaurants in 1974. Martínez installed some of the first trompos in Los Angeles at his Eastside taquerías to prepare Mexico City-style al pastor — pork marinated in adobo cooked on a vertical spit. The Mexico City-born taquero also created the lonchera, serving tacos out of catering trucks that Angelenos now know as the city’s roving taco trucks.

Fast forward to 2010 with the opening of Leo’s Tacos on La Brea and Venice, founded by Indigenous Mixe brothers Raul Martínez (no relation to the Raul of King Taco) and Mario Ivan Martínez, who hail from Tamazulápam del Espíritu Santo, Oaxaca. Taqueros from this town of just over 2,300 people in the Sierra Mixe operate some of the most esteemed trompos in Mexico, from Oaxaca to Mexico City. And they changed Los Angeles’s taco culture forever.

From the moment their bright, shapely trompos were placed outside the orange and yellow lonchera toward the rear of a gas station at the corner of South La Brea Avenue and Venice Boulevard in Mid-City, Angelenos have been hooked on Mexico City-style tacos al pastor. Today, the streets of Los Angeles teem with marinated pork tacos shaved from trompos.

The Art of the Trompo

Tacos de trompo in Mexico use meats roasted with high flames on a vertical spit, which came to Mexico with Lebanese immigrants in the early 20th century. In the case of tacos al pastor, these trompos are mounted with thin cuts of carne adobada (adobo-marinated meat) built in layers to form a conical or cylindrical mound of meat. The most notable regional variations are tacos al pastor in Mexico City and Puebla, tacos de adobada in Tijuana, and tacos de trompo in Monterey. Most other parts of Mexico use the name al pastor for this type of tacos. Tacos árabes are tacos de trompo without adobo (not considered al pastor), which use a thick flour tortilla called pan árabe.

There’s no rigid approach when it comes to al pastor’s adobo marinade: Every stand takes its own liberties with highly guarded recipes; often, only family or trusted employees know the adobo’s specific makeup. At Leo’s Tacos, the Martínez brothers prepare the adobo using their secret blend of ingredients in one commissary, which is then distributed across the city at various stands and trucks. All adobo recipes feature dried red chiles like chile guajillo and chile ancho, and sometimes a little chile de árbol for an added spicy punch. They also use herbs, spices, pineapple juice or vinegar for acid, and other seasonings. Many, but not all, use achiote paste for color and flavor that give the trompo its signature reddish or orange coloring.

Iconic Taquerías and Their Unique Offerings

Ever since I tried the tacos al pastor in this tire shop parking lot in 2011, sporting a signature duo of trompos run by skilled taqueros, this place has been a regular stop on my unending Los Angeles taco crawl. The glossy black taco trailer opened in 1992 from cousins Eduardo Fernandez and Mariano Zenteno, both born in Puebla and raised in Mexico City. Simply put, this is the best trompo in town. Once the vertical spit is trimmed to its wide cylindrical shape, taqueros finish the discarded loose meat on the grill below it. These cuts are reserved for mulitas, gringas, tortas, and other dishes. The trompo’s remaining meat is reserved for tacos. Roman stripe blocks of pork, subtly sweet and punctuated by herbal notes, are Los Güichos’s crowning glory. Taqueros shave off white-laced rows of the seared meat, leaving crimson adobo rims. There’s nothing else like it in Los Angeles.

Customers add chopped onions and cilantro, and the preferred salsa for al pastor — salsa de chile de árbol. There are no pineapple chunks here, and diners will find that none are needed when the exceptional al pastor is nestled inside a pliable pair of Tortilla El Ranchero corn tortillas. The key for Los Güichos’ success, besides the recipe, are taqueros who are fixed on the trompo, turning, charring, and slicing constantly. Fernandez or another team member will take the orders. Inside the trailer, cooks prepare other dishes. Mulita de al pastor? The taqueros in the trailer have that covered. The two taqueros only have one job, and that’s to cover your white paper plate with deftly composed al pastor tacos.

Our Advice on the City

Los Angeles is a city that thrives on diversity, and its food scene is a testament to this. For occasional travelers, we recommend exploring the various taco stands and taquerías scattered throughout the city. Each offers a unique take on the beloved taco al pastor, providing a culinary journey that reflects the rich cultural tapestry of Los Angeles.

For the more seasoned traveler, consider delving deeper into the history and evolution of these taquerías. Visit the original King Taco in Cypress Park to pay homage to Raul Martínez, the pioneer who introduced the trompo to Los Angeles. Experience the vibrant atmosphere of Leo’s Tacos and witness the meticulous craftsmanship of the taqueros who have mastered the art of the trompo.

In conclusion, the story of tacos al pastor in Los Angeles is not just about food; it’s a narrative of cultural exchange, innovation, and community. Whether you’re a casual visitor or a seasoned traveler, the city’s taquerías offer a rich, flavorful experience that is sure to leave a lasting impression. So, grab a taco, savor the flavors, and immerse yourself in the culinary heritage of Los Angeles.