What challenges did Chef Ki Kim overcome to find success at Meteora?

The restaurant industry is notoriously demanding, with long hours, physical and mental exertion, and economic pressures. The pandemic exacerbated these challenges, leading to over 1 million workers leaving the industry. Among those who persevered is Chef Ki Kim, whose journey through the highs and lows of the culinary world offers a poignant look at the mental health struggles and triumphs within the industry.

The Rise and Fall of Kinn

Ki Kim opened Kinn, one of Los Angeles’s first modern Korean tasting menu restaurants, in November 2021. The restaurant quickly garnered acclaim, with Los Angeles Times critic Bill Addison praising it as potentially heralding the future of fine dining in LA. However, despite the accolades, Kim faced immense personal and professional challenges.

By November 2023, Kim decided to close Kinn, citing strains on his physical and mental health. The pressures of running a restaurant, from HR to accounting, proved overwhelming. Kim, who was a 49 percent owner, felt the burden of responsibility disproportionately. “It began to feel unfair with the amount of hours I dedicated every week,” he said. The closure was a difficult but necessary decision for his well-being.

Struggles and Mental Health

The closure of Kinn underscored the mental health issues prevalent in the restaurant industry. Kim lost roughly 20 pounds in the weeks leading up to the closure due to stress and anxiety. He described the critical praise and customer satisfaction as “addicting,” leading chefs to rarely prioritize their own health.

Kim’s experience is not unique. A survey by Cozymeal found that 70% of participating chefs had experienced anxiety from working in a restaurant, with many also suffering from sleeping disorders, depression, and substance abuse. Organizations like Restaurant After Hours and Healthy Hospo exist to help service industry members battle these issues.

Despite the closure, Kim found solace in the outpouring of support from the community and fellow chefs. “We’ve already seen a lot of familiar faces after we announced, and everyone is reaching out. I didn’t know there were like this many people that cared about us. It’s been very emotional,” he said.

New Beginnings at Meteora

After closing Kinn, Kim took some time off before joining Meteora as an executive sous chef. By May 2024, he was promoted to chef de cuisine. The restaurant recently earned a Michelin star, a testament to the hard work of Kim and his team. “I feel like ever since Kinn closed, even though it’s in the past, that was definitely the low point of my life. I felt like chef Jordan [Kahn] extended a hand to give me a home. I’m extremely grateful to be a part of Meteora,” Kim said.

Kim’s journey at Meteora has been a period of healing and growth. He found therapy to be a significant source of rest and rejuvenation, helping him navigate the challenges of the industry. “Just having someone obligated to listen for ‘X’ amount of time, somebody that gives you a realistic reaction to what’s going on in your life, and someone who has enough education and intelligence to diagnose by hearing you — it’s amazing,” he shared.

Looking to the Future

Kim’s dream is to open another restaurant, one that is sustainable for himself, his employees, and his guests. He envisions a smaller, more intimate setting with fewer than 16 seats and a team of three or four people. “I have a very specific vision about what my restaurant would look like and what we want to serve, but it’s difficult to find people who agree with that,” he said.

Despite the challenges, Kim remains hopeful and excited for the future. “What I really want to do is focus on the present moment, but I’m very excited for the future. I feel like what the future holds is very bright — and it’s even brighter than the prime of Kinn,” he said.

Our Advice on the City

For those visiting Los Angeles, exploring the city’s diverse culinary scene is a must. From fine dining establishments to hidden gems in Koreatown, LA offers a rich tapestry of flavors and experiences. For occasional travelers, we recommend visiting a mix of renowned restaurants and local favorites to get a true taste of the city’s culinary landscape.

For expert travelers, consider seeking out pop-up dining experiences and chef collaborations, which often offer unique and innovative dishes. These events provide an opportunity to engage with the culinary community and discover new talents.

In conclusion, Chef Ki Kim’s journey is a testament to the resilience and passion that drives the culinary world. His story highlights the importance of mental health and the need for a supportive community. As you explore Los Angeles, take a moment to appreciate the dedication and hard work behind each dish, and remember to support the chefs and restaurant workers who make it all possible.