Discover the hidden gem of kaiseki dining in Beverly Hills: Chef Kazushige Motoishi’s exclusive pop-up

In the heart of Beverly Hills, Chef Kazushige Motoishi has been making waves with his twice-a-week lunch and dinner pop-up at Sushi Yamamoto. This small, eight-seat restaurant, previously a private dining room, has become the designated soba preparation area for Motoishi’s pop-up, Kaiseki Motoishi. The pop-up, which takes place on Sundays and Mondays, offers a multi-course soba lunch and traditional Kyoto-style kaiseki dinner. These dishes are tailored to the season, featuring delicacies such as pike conger eel in dashi and sweet corn donabe rice.

Motoishi’s journey in kaiseki cuisine began at Arashiyama Kitcho in Kyoto, and he honed his soba-making skills at Yen in Paris. In February 2023, Motoishi moved to Los Angeles to collaborate with Chef Yusuke Yamamoto at the eponymous sushi restaurant, which opened in the fall of 2023. Although Sushi Yamamoto is closed on Sundays and Mondays, owner Yamato Miura and Motoishi decided to utilize the space for Motoishi’s kaiseki and soba pop-up, starting in February this year. Miura originally planned for Motoishi to work at Yamamoto for five years before opening his own restaurant. However, a different opportunity presented itself, and Miura now plans to open a restaurant inside the Hilton in Arcadia next year, featuring a separate eight-seat dining room where Motoishi will serve Kyoto-style kaiseki.

The Art of Soba Making

Using a special knife, Motoishi meticulously prepares soba noodles as part of Sushi Yamamoto’s omakase and his own kaiseki offerings. The $350 per person kaiseki dinner features a 13-course menu, while the $85 lunch offers a condensed five-course experience. The lunch starts with miso soup and vegetables, followed by a rice dish such as snapper ochazuke or summer corn donabe with grilled fish. This is followed by hot kake (noodle soup) soba, tempura zaru (cold) soba, and dessert matcha. The soba course in Sushi Yamamoto’s omakase and Motoishi’s kaiseki dinner is more elaborate, showcasing high-end ingredients like abalone or Hokkaido uni.

Los Angeles is known for its Japanese cuisine, but the soba scene in the Southland is sparse. There are only a few options across the city, including Otafuku in Gardena, Ichimiann in Torrance, and Sobar in Culver City, which opened in 2023. In Japan, a soba tasting menu like Motoishi’s is uncommon. It is unusual to have both hot and cold soba in one meal, but for soba lovers like Tomoko Imade Dyen, it offers the best of both worlds. Dyen, a Japanese food and tea expert, collaborated with Motoishi for tea-pairing. She remarked, “When you eat soba, it’s about the texture, smell, and the slurp. The feel of the soba buckwheat aroma inside your mouth is fabulous.”

Motoishi makes soba using 80 percent buckwheat flour and 20 percent wheat flour, though the percentage may vary with the type of buckwheat flour. He is particularly attached to buckwheat flour from Nagano, which he believes creates a balance between the strong buckwheat aroma and flavor and the chewier texture from the wheat flour. The results rely heavily on the process. In the soba room, Motoishi kneads the buckwheat dough until it feels right in texture and moisture, adjusting the water based on the current humidity. The soba is cut with a soba-kiri, a knife shaped with a long blade for cutting soba noodles. The noodles are then rested for an hour before being served for lunch. Motoishi believes soba is best served fresh, and if the reservation schedule is hectic, he makes another batch for dinner service. Otherwise, the same morning batch is used in the evening.

Expanding Horizons: The Future of Kaiseki Motoishi

In preparation for the new restaurant opening, Motoishi is familiarizing himself with California ingredients while running pop-ups and spreading the word about traditional kaiseki and soba. Miura and Motoishi are keeping the pop-ups small, informing regular customers and friends, and posting on Instagram. Motoishi is looking forward to adding new tools at the forthcoming Arcadia restaurant, which will feature soba on the main menu. “When we open the new restaurant next year, I will try to get a stone grinder to grind soba seeds,” says Miura. This process will make Motoishi’s soba taste fresher and more flavorful.

Kaiseki Motoishi is located at 218 N. Rodeo Drive, Second floor, Beverly Hills, CA, 90210. Reservations, made by messaging on Instagram, are recommended. Lunch is served between 12 p.m. and 2 p.m., with one dinner seating at 7 p.m.

Our Advice on the City

Los Angeles is a city that offers a rich tapestry of culinary experiences, and Kaiseki Motoishi is a shining example of this diversity. For those planning to visit, it’s essential to make reservations well in advance, especially for high-demand dining experiences like Motoishi’s pop-up. If you’re an occasional traveler, consider exploring the various Japanese restaurants in the area to get a broader sense of the city’s culinary landscape. From traditional sushi bars to innovative fusion cuisine, Los Angeles has something to offer every palate.

For expert travelers, diving deeper into the local food culture can be incredibly rewarding. Take the time to visit local markets and specialty stores to understand the ingredients that make up these exquisite dishes. Engage with the chefs and staff to learn more about the preparation techniques and the cultural significance behind each dish. This deeper understanding will not only enhance your dining experience but also provide a richer appreciation of the culinary arts.

In conclusion, Los Angeles continues to be a vibrant hub for Japanese cuisine, and Chef Kazushige Motoishi’s dedication to his craft adds a unique and authentic dimension to the city’s culinary scene. Whether you’re a seasoned food enthusiast or a curious traveler, the experience at Kaiseki Motoishi is sure to leave a lasting impression. So, make your reservations, savor the flavors, and immerse yourself in the artistry of soba and kaiseki. Happy dining!