Unveiling LA’s New Italian Dining Gems: A Roman Culinary Journey

The Italian culinary landscape in Los Angeles has seen a remarkable evolution, with new establishments continually raising the bar for quality, ambiance, and authenticity. This article explores some of the most recent and notable additions to LA’s Italian dining scene, highlighting the unique characteristics that set each apart.

All Roads: A Roman Culinary Journey in Brentwood

The Toscana Restaurant Group, renowned for its dedication to Italian cuisine, has unveiled its latest project, All Roads, at 145 South Barrington Avenue in Brentwood. Opening on July 26, 2024, this restaurant is a charming ode to Roman cuisine, featuring traditional Roman pinsas and an all-Italian wine list. The name “All Roads” is a nod to the famous saying, “all roads lead to Rome,” reflecting the menu’s focus on eight varieties of Roman flatbreads.

The menu, crafted by chefs Marco Longinotti, Luca Crestanelli, and Justino Quirino, includes a diverse range of pinsas such as the Amatriciana, made with San Marzano tomatoes, guanciale, basil, and shallots, and the Mortadella, featuring pistachios, burrata, and salsa verde. The pinsa dough, a blend of rice, soy, and wheat flours fermented over several days, results in a crispy crust with a lighter interior, offering a unique texture that stands out from traditional Roman pizza.

In addition to pinsas, All Roads offers a selection of Roman delicacies like suppli (deep-fried risotto balls), carciofi alla giudia (fried baby artichokes), and for dessert, maritozzi (whipped cream-filled sweet buns). The restaurant’s 1,900 square-foot space, designed by Candice Goodwin and Ralph Gentile Architects, features a mural of a flying donkey by artist Marco Lamberti, evoking the warm color palette of Rome’s ancient frescoes.

Ètra: A Polished Italian Experience in Melrose Hill

Opening on December 5, 2023, Ètra is the latest addition to Los Angeles’ Italian restaurant scene, located at 737 North Western Avenue. This establishment stands out for its personal and polished approach to food and service, brought to life by chef Evan Algorri, general manager Andrew Lawson, and real estate developer Tyler Stonebreaker.

The name Ètra, a portmanteau of “È Tra” meaning “in-between” in Italian, reflects the restaurant’s unique location and ambiance. The dining space, designed by artist John Zabawa of Roller Studio, features a 1,500-square-foot indoor and outdoor footprint with floor-to-ceiling Baltic birch panels, hand-laid Zia ceramic tiles, and Hans Agne Jakobsen pendants, creating a warm and inviting atmosphere.

The menu at Ètra is a reflection of Algorri’s culinary journey, drawing from his extensive travels throughout Italy and rigorous French culinary training. Signature dishes include the bavette Nerano, a play on a specialty from the Amalfi Coast with zucchini, basil, and poached mussels, and the rigatoni Gricia, likened to an amatriciana bianco with black pepper, guanciale, pecorino Romano, and silky onion soubise. The wine list, curated by Lawson, focuses on French and Italian varietals with minimal intervention, offering a selection of good, clean, and delicious wines.

Mother Wolf: A Hollywood Production of Roman Cuisine

Mother Wolf, located at 1545 Wilcox Avenue, has quickly become a hotspot for Hollywood’s elite since its opening. Chef Evan Funke, known for his pasta obsession and perfectionism, brings a meticulously crafted Roman menu to this opulent 8,600-square-foot space. The restaurant’s design, featuring candy apple-colored tiles, brick-red leather, gilded Murano blown-glass chandeliers, and smoky mirrors, creates an atmosphere reminiscent of Parisian brasseries and Manhattan’s seats of privilege.

The menu at Mother Wolf includes Roman classics such as spaghettone alla gricia, bucatini con cicoria, and carciofi e prosciutto pizza. Funke’s dedication to authenticity is evident in the precise execution of dishes like the gricia, which features cured pork jowl’s barnyard funk and sharp pecorino Romano. The restaurant also offers a selection of seasonal starters, including fried squash blossoms stuffed with ricotta and Parmigiano Reggiano, and supplì, rice croquettes that are a quintessential Roman street snack.

Mother Wolf’s wine list is a labyrinth of prices, regions, and styles, expertly guided by the sommelier team. The restaurant’s ambiance, combined with its culinary excellence, makes it a must-visit destination for those seeking a taste of Rome in the heart of Hollywood.

Our Advice on the City

For those planning a visit to Los Angeles, exploring the city’s vibrant Italian dining scene is a must. Whether you’re a casual traveler or a seasoned foodie, these restaurants offer a unique opportunity to experience the diverse and rich flavors of Italian cuisine.

For occasional travelers, we recommend making reservations well in advance, as these popular spots fill up quickly. Consider visiting during off-peak hours to enjoy a more relaxed dining experience.

For expert travelers, delve deeper into the menus and wine lists, and don’t hesitate to ask the knowledgeable staff for recommendations. Exploring lesser-known dishes and regional specialties can provide a richer and more authentic culinary experience.

In conclusion, Los Angeles’ Italian restaurants offer a delightful journey through Italy’s culinary landscape, each with its own unique charm and specialties. Whether you’re savoring a crispy pinsa at All Roads, enjoying a polished meal at Ètra, or indulging in the opulent ambiance of Mother Wolf, you’re sure to find an unforgettable dining experience in the City of Angels. Buon appetito!